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Specifications:
- Can be welding 18650/26650/32650 lipo battery, it is portable, stable and reliable
- System voltage: 12V-14.6V
- Working current: 90-150A
- Suggested battery:1. 20-45ah Lead-acid battery with good performance and small internal resistance
-This circuit with a 12V battery will become an energy storage spot welding machine for welding nickel pieces such as lithium batteries and nickel-chromium batteries. According to different configurations, the thickness can be about 0.1MM-0.15mm
Function Description:
After power on, press and hold the switch for 2 seconds to turn on
There are 4 modes, press and hold the switch for 3 seconds to switch to a u201cbeepinchs sound and finish
Level 1: Low power1, green light flashes once
2nd gear: medium power1, green light flashes twice
Level 3: High power1, green light flashes three times
4th gear: automatic mode
When the red light is always on, press and hold the switch to turn off the device.
NOTE:
If the battery is pretty good and the internal resistance is very low, and then there may be large current overload.
If you are not sure about your battery, it"s better to extend the wire by around 1 meter with 2.5u00b2 or 4u00b2 wire, then it will reduce the risk of power tube burnt.
After I assembled the board with beeper, capacitor and the cables it was not working. There was no power at the welding tips. When checking the boards circuit I found this: MCU output -> drives a PNP transistor -> drives the gates of the N-ch FETs. I post a photo of the schematic: It cannot work. The diode is assembled in wrong direction (the PNP transistor will never switch on) and even if it is reversed it cannot work. The PNP transisitor is always on then because the voltage after the diode can never be higher than MCU power supply (5V) plus diode forward voltage. I removed the diode, PNP transistor and the rest and replaced it by a PC817 optocoupler, after that the spot welder works as intended. (The original circuit may work for battery voltages up to maybe 7-8V but not higher).
Did the manufactiurer made this change recently? Other users will experience the same issue like me...
After I assembled the board with beeper, capacitor and the cables it was not working. There was no power at the welding tips. When checking the boards circuit I found this: MCU output -> drives a PNP transistor -> drives the gates of the N-ch FETs. I post a photo of the schematic: It cannot work. The diode is assembled in wrong direction (the PNP transistor will never switch on) and even if it is reversed it cannot work. The PNP transisitor is always on then because the voltage after the diode can never be higher than MCU power supply (5V) plus diode forward voltage. I removed the diode, PNP transistor and the rest and replaced it by a PC817 optocoupler, after that the spot welder works as intended. (The original circuit may work for battery voltages up to maybe 7-8V but not higher).
Did the manufactiurer made this change recently? Other users will experience the same issue like me...
After I assembled the board with beeper, capacitor and the cables it was not working. There was no power at the welding tips. When checking the boards circuit I found this: MCU output -> drives a PNP transistor -> drives the gates of the N-ch FETs. I post a photo of the schematic: It cannot work. The diode is assembled in wrong direction (the PNP transistor will never switch on) and even if it is reversed it cannot work. The PNP transisitor is always on then because the voltage after the diode can never be higher than MCU power supply (5V) plus diode forward voltage. I removed the diode, PNP transistor and the rest and replaced it by a PC817 optocoupler, after that the spot welder works as intended. (The original circuit may work for battery voltages up to maybe 7-8V but not higher).
Did the manufactiurer made this change recently? Other users will experience the same issue like me...
Minor assembly required with soldering iron. The Capacitor and Buzzer need to be soldered on, and leads have to be soldered as well. I put XT-60 on mine so I can power it with a large 5000mah 3S lipo, or use my Lipo charger in "power supply" mode.
Very easy to do and board is marked for where the 2 items have to go. Assembled min in
Excellent for spot-welding RC battery packs.
Works on Nicad and NiMh batteries.
Also works well for LiPo's. Make sure you lift the Lipo leads up, touch them together and then spot weld. Fold them back down when done
Minor assembly required with soldering iron. The Capacitor and Buzzer need to be soldered on, and leads have to be soldered as well. I put XT-60 on mine so I can power it with a large 5000mah 3S lipo, or use my Lipo charger in "power supply" mode.
Very easy to do and board is marked for where the 2 items have to go. Assembled min in
Excellent for spot-welding RC battery packs.
Works on Nicad and NiMh batteries.
Also works well for LiPo's. Make sure you lift the Lipo leads up, touch them together and then spot weld. Fold them back down when done
Minor assembly required with soldering iron. The Capacitor and Buzzer need to be soldered on, and leads have to be soldered as well. I put XT-60 on mine so I can power it with a large 5000mah 3S lipo, or use my Lipo charger in "power supply" mode.
Very easy to do and board is marked for where the 2 items have to go. Assembled min in
Excellent for spot-welding RC battery packs.
Works on Nicad and NiMh batteries.
Also works well for LiPo's. Make sure you lift the Lipo leads up, touch them together and then spot weld. Fold them back down when done
Tips:For questions about your order, place of delivery, product discount, taxation, delivery time, warranty, shipping, payment, exchange rate, and other questions unrelated to the product, please contact customer service.
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A part of the QA has been auto-translated.
0
Q:
well this work with a 164amp 12v dc server power supply?
well this work with a 164amp 12v dc server power supply?
The electronic power supply might fail if repeatedly short-circuited by the welding. Alternatively, there might not be enough short-term current because most power supplies will instantly shut down when they detect a short-circuit. Remember, the server power supply is designed to operate 164A while the terminals are at 12V, and is definitely not designed to provide 164A into a short-circuit - if the voltage drops towards zero (a short circuit) then the power supply will consider that is a fault condition and switch off. You really should just use the recommended battery, as that's cheaper and easier and proven to work.
The electronic power supply might fail if repeatedly short-circuited by the welding. Alternatively, there might not be enough short-term current because most power supplies will instantly shut down when they detect a short-circuit. Remember, the server power supply is designed to operate 164A while the terminals are at 12V, and is definitely not designed to provide 164A into a short-circuit - if the voltage drops towards zero (a short circuit) then the power supply will consider that is a fault condition and switch off. You really should just use the recommended battery, as that's cheaper and easier and proven to work.
I think that is OK.
- Suggested battery:
1. 20-45ah Lead-acid battery with good performance and small internal resistance
2. 3.5-5.5ah 45C 3S aeromodel lithium battery pack
3. 30-35ah capacity 18650 battery pack
I think that is OK.
- Suggested battery:
1. 20-45ah Lead-acid battery with good performance and small internal resistance
2. 3.5-5.5ah 45C 3S aeromodel lithium battery pack
3. 30-35ah capacity 18650 battery pack
Switch function: press the switch for 1.5 seconds to turn on (green light flashes, low-power spot welding pulses are output every 3 seconds), press the switch for 1.5 seconds (blue light flashes, medium-power spot welding pulses are output every 3 seconds), press switch 1.5 Second (red light flashes, high power spot welding pulse is output every 3 seconds) Press the switch for 1.5 seconds to shut down.
Switch function: press the switch for 1.5 seconds to turn on (green light flashes, low-power spot welding pulses are output every 3 seconds), press the switch for 1.5 seconds (blue light flashes, medium-power spot welding pulses are output every 3 seconds), press switch 1.5 Second (red light flashes, high power spot welding pulse is output every 3 seconds) Press the switch for 1.5 seconds to shut down.
Answered by Spifit on 16/04/2020Helpful (0)
0
Q:
can I use a 60Ah 400A Lead-Acid car battery with this?
can I use a 60Ah 400A Lead-Acid car battery with this?
30A is probably much too low. I haven't received the unit yet to measure the actual current but will do that when it arrives. I'm guessing that spot welding the metal strips this is intended for requires at least 100A, maybe more like 200A. One way you might be able to use the 30A supply is if you put a very large capacitance in parallel with the supply. The capacitor needs to have a very low ESR (equivalent series resistance). A 50,000uF, 15V, low ESR electrolytic capacitor might work but it may cost you ***** or more. To calculate the actual capacitance required, you need to know the required current and the period of the current pulse and assume a voltage change of about 1 volt, i.e. assume the capacitor voltage will drop from 12V to 11V during the pulse. C = (current x pulse period) divided by the voltage change. So if the current needed is 100A and the the pulse period is 5 milliseconds and the capacitor voltage change is 1 volt, then C = (100A x .005 seconds) divided by 1 volt = 0.5 farads or 500,000uF. That's going to require a bank of 10 paralleled 15V, 50,000uF capacitors. You might as well get a 12V car battery. I think it might be cheaper. But I could be wrong about the max current required.
30A is probably much too low. I haven't received the unit yet to measure the actual current but will do that when it arrives. I'm guessing that spot welding the metal strips this is intended for requires at least 100A, maybe more like 200A. One way you might be able to use the 30A supply is if you put a very large capacitance in parallel with the supply. The capacitor needs to have a very low ESR (equivalent series resistance). A 50,000uF, 15V, low ESR electrolytic capacitor might work but it may cost you ***** or more. To calculate the actual capacitance required, you need to know the required current and the period of the current pulse and assume a voltage change of about 1 volt, i.e. assume the capacitor voltage will drop from 12V to 11V during the pulse. C = (current x pulse period) divided by the voltage change. So if the current needed is 100A and the the pulse period is 5 milliseconds and the capacitor voltage change is 1 volt, then C = (100A x .005 seconds) divided by 1 volt = 0.5 farads or 500,000uF. That's going to require a bank of 10 paralleled 15V, 50,000uF capacitors. You might as well get a 12V car battery. I think it might be cheaper. But I could be wrong about the max current required.
Answered by Danno on 18/12/2020Helpful (0)
0
Q:
Is it ok to use this product with a 12v 20ah gel car battery?
Is it ok to use this product with a 12v 20ah gel car battery?
It is ok, but please check whether the circuit is working. The unit, which I received is faulty. It never could work since there is a severe fault of the circuit design. I had to correct this with major effort.
It is ok, but please check whether the circuit is working. The unit, which I received is faulty. It never could work since there is a severe fault of the circuit design. I had to correct this with major effort.
Answered by Volker on 14/12/2020Helpful (0)
0
Q:
I just received it, I connected it all normally and as soon as I connected it to the battery, it took out the Diy, it took out smoke and it didn't work anymore, I think they are defective, that's why they sold them cheaper than others, I bought them and they gave me the kind of problem
I just received it, I connected it all normally and as soon as I connected it to the battery, it took out the Diy, it took out smoke and it didn't work anymore, I think they are defective, that's why they sold them cheaper than others, I bought them and they gave me the kind of problem
No, definitely not! A fully charged 4S has a no-load voltage of 16.8V. Max for this is 14.6V. A 3S is what you want. As a matter of fact, mine blew the input diode when I plugged it into a 3S battery. I had to replace the diode to get it working. This board is not very robust but it does work for 0.1mm straps.
No, definitely not! A fully charged 4S has a no-load voltage of 16.8V. Max for this is 14.6V. A 3S is what you want. As a matter of fact, mine blew the input diode when I plugged it into a 3S battery. I had to replace the diode to get it working. This board is not very robust but it does work for 0.1mm straps.
Answered by Pavel Ponomarenko on 23/03/2022Helpful (0)
0
Q:
In another site I have seen using it and sell it with a capacitor 35V 2200μF solder it on PCB Board. Why in this one don't use this capacitor? Thank you!
In another site I have seen using it and sell it with a capacitor 35V 2200μF solder it on PCB Board. Why in this one don't use this capacitor? Thank you!